India is an intriguing country. It is an ancient land, with great cultural richness and a fascinating history. It is also a young country, struggling to form an egalitarian and democratic society. Both ancient and modern India coexist. Passions and turmoil of great antiquity are intertwined with the challenges and pleasures of modern technology. The resulting images are confusing, both to the outsider looking in and to Indians themselves.

Outsiders feel they are barely penetrating the surface, but even among Indians there are few experiences every person shares. The country and cultures within it are too diverse. Each person knows his or her own reality well, but much of the rest of the Indian experience is seen less clearly or, sometimes, not at all. India is many things to many people, and no one can claim to define its whole essence.

Traveling in India is an amazing experience. India is diverse, colourful, and inspirational. It is also confusing, chaotic, and frustrating. India demands a response from the visitor. It challenges you on a very personal level. Many love it. Some hate it. Few are indifferent. India will overload your senses, test your limits, or restructure your basic assumptions. Its basic humanity will touch your soul. Long after you leave you will be gently haunted by memories a place, a person, even a sound, or a smell.

Health Tips

In many people's minds India epitomizes all the terrifying diseases that have plagued mankind throughout history. The outbreak of bubonic plague in Surat, North India, a few years back helped cement the medieval image of the Indian disease scene.

While it's true that diseases long vanquished in the West still take a toll here, most visitors can travel in reasonable safely by practicing some basic preventative steps. The truly gruesome diseases like leprosy are basically impossible to catch through casual contact, and most of the deformities you see among the halt and lame at the roadside are the results of birth defects, accidents, or neglect of minor injuries turned infectious. If India had even a minimal public health system, working sewers, and a clean water supply that reached the bulk of the people, there would be a huge improvement in the general health of the population.

Travelers coming from countries where basic health facilities and public sanitation are taken for granted need to condition themselves to a new reality while traveling in India. You must become very pro-active about your health. Be aware of common diseases you can encounter here, how you get them, and some of the symptoms. Get the advice of a doctor about inoculations required and other medical precautions you should take. Carry a simple first aid kit, and make sure it is with you all the time. Keep it simple. Band-Aids, antiseptic, and mosquito repellant are the minimum. Some travelers bring large amounts of antibiotics and other medicines from their home country "just in case". This is wasteful and unnecessary (unless you have a specific drug you need to take regularly) as India has a well developed pharmaceutical industry and most any drug is available here. Often, Indian doctors will be able to advise more recent and effective treatments for tropical diseases than Western doctors with little tropical background. Should you get sick, you can get excellent medical attention in India. (This doesn't mean you will get it. You must be pro-active about your medical treatment, as you must be about so many other things.)

It is certainly possible to travel in India without getting sick. But it is also possible, even being terribly careful, to get sick here. Usually it is that kind of minor bug that provides a bit of conversation at backpacker gatherings, but sometimes it is more annoying. Besides personal hygiene (wash hands often, keep finger nails short, treat minor cuts and scrapes immediately) travelers should be concerned with three key areas - clean water, cooked food, and avoiding mosquitos. The most common and incapacitating diseases are gastro-intestinal upset, hepatitis and mosquito borne diseases like dengue fever, Japanese encephalitis, filaria and malaria.

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Water

Water - Clean drinking water, these days, is not too difficult since bottled water is sold in most places. A recent survey of some popular brands conducted by the magazine INDIA TODAY indicated that the brands they tested all fell short of ideal purity but none seemed to harbor serious disease causing organisms. Not the best news, but definitely safer than relying on tap water. In the past, rumors of bottled water refilled from local taps and resold were common enough but these days bottled water is a fairly mature industry and supplies seem reliable. Check the seal, and see if things are floating in it before buying. A certain amount of suspicion can be healthy.

You may sometimes encounter backpackers who drink the local water everywhere and claim no ill effects. Whether this is because they have an unusually robust intestinal tract or because they have not yet encountered anything serious, it's hard to say. Some travelers swear by papaya or yogurt (recommended - eating both regularly helps your digestive system) and others rely on the powers of gurus, gods, or fate. One young woman was going high tech, with a battery device that sent current through her body to purify her gut.

Considering the antiquated state of most Indian cities' water systems, where ancient sewage pipes leak into rusting water mains, it is probably just a matter of time before they encounter something their system can't deal with. Also, the treatment of drinking water in local restaurants is terrifyingly casual - often one large storage bin that every waiter dips poorly-washed glasses into. The vectors for rapid transmission of diseases are in place. As a result, it is not surprising to encounter travelers suffering from mild to major problems with their intestines. In fact, a common topic of discussion at backpacker gatherings is the condition and nature of one's shit. Mild stomach upset and diarrhea caused by unfamiliar or overly spicy food affect many travelers from time to time. Most people consider it an initiation into India and a minor irritant. For minor intestinal problems, try increasing your intake of both papaya and yogurt, and make sure you drink a lot of (non-alcoholic) liquids. Rehydration salts, available at medical shops, may be useful. "Intestinal brakes" like Lomotil and Kaopectate aren't generally recommended. Major problems, with symptoms which include blood or pus in stools, and/or fever merit consulting a doctor. So might persistent, recurring problems that you can't seem to shake.

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Food

Water isn't your only concern. What food you eat, how it's cooked, stored and served is important too. As a rule, stick to freshly cooked food, made in a reasonably clean restaurant. (This doesn't mean the high priced food in major 5-star hotels.) As it is the world over, you can sometimes get excellent, safe food in a grotty tea shop, and stomach churning food in a high priced fancy place. Here are some things to consider:

- Freshly cooked food is safest. Food left sitting can attract flies, which may have winged over from a nearby latrine.
- Be wary of salads and fresh vegetable garnishes. There isn't much awareness of washing vegetables before serving. I don't even trust the fanciest of restaurants enough to eat raw vegetables there.
- Fresh fruit juices can be a problem, since many tropical fruits blend into a pulp that you have to dilute with water. It's unlikely that the vendor is adding expensive bottled water.
- Ice can be suspect, especially if it has arrived in a block carried on a bicycle and dropped off on the street in front of the restaurant. Avoid ice in small towns and villages unless its from a refrigerator..
- Quite a few travelers avoid meat in India, reasoning that meat is more likely to be off, or make you sick. India has probably the best vegetarian cuisine in the world, so this is no hardship. However, if your diet does include meat you may not want to miss some of the excellent meat dishes you can get here. As a rule, though, don't do your meat ordering in the lower end restaurants or station platforms.
- Keep your finger nails short and clean. Wash your hands frequently, and especially before you eat. Even the dirtiest dive will have a place to wash hands, though they may not have soap. Carry some with you, though you can usually get someone to deliver a tiny sliver of soap, or a bit of liquid or powdered dish soap if you protest long enough. I see this as a service to other patrons, and have noticed that more and more restaurants, even on the low end, are trying to supply soap.

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Mosquitoes

Avoiding Mosquitos - There are several nasty diseases you can get this way, and India has an overabundance of mosquitoes. Don't panic. Many types of them don't carry serious diseases, and those types that do are not necessarily infected unless they have bitten a carrier recently. Still, mosquito-borne diseases can be very serious, even fatal and you should develop some habits that will minimize the amount of exposure you have to mosquitos.

Use a good repellent. You can bring one from the home country, but there are quite adequate repellants here. "Odomos" is one brand that is freely available, seems to work pretty well, and is inexpensive. Dusk seems to be the "Mosquito Hour" and it's a good idea to oil up before that - say 5:30 or 6:00 and perhaps change into a long-sleeved shirt and pants. If you make a routine of it you're less likely to suddenly realize that the sun's gone down and you've got welts all over your exposed skin. Malaria-carrying mosquitoes, in particular, bite in the early evening and early morning. Dengue mosquitos apparently like dark, shady areas around a house and bite in the daytime so, if you hear of dengue around, you may want to apply repellant in the day too. I don't know when Japanese encephalitis carrying mossies do their dirty work, but if you're in an area with an outbreak you will want to be careful. When you see reports in the papers of cases of "brain fever" assume it is encephalitis.
Other mossie defenses include a mosquito net - easy enough to buy or bring, but sometimes awkward to put up. * You can also buy mosquito coils that burn about 8 hours or so and keep mosquitoes away. The problem is that the coils break easily, and there is a risk of fire. They are very inexpensive.
You can also buy a little electric heater pad that heats a chemically impregnated mat releasing mossie-killing vapours. These heaters and mats are readily available and are fairly easy to carry. However you do need electricity - something to remember if you are going either REALLY low budget or somewhere rugged. They are supposed to be used in a well ventilated room.
Reduce the number of mosquitos around you, if possible. One trick is to try and get a room as high above the ground as possible. Third and fourth floor rooms seem to have fewer mossies than those below. Maybe the commute is too much for them. And a good strong fan running all night helps keep them away while you sleep, but beware of power outages. Don't forget to use repellent when travelling on trains overnight, unless perhaps in Air Con class. Trains can stop, sometimes for long periods in the night, and you may be exposed to all kinds of new mosquito types as you sleep. Malaria drugs are often recommended as preventative, but there seem to be various views on the use of such drugs. In some cases they can mask symptoms if you do get infected. Also, the local mosquitos may be resistant to that drug and sometimes the side effects of these drugs can be annoying, even dangerous. Also, you can't use them for very long. (If you're resident out here you'll have to put up major mosquito defenses, like window screens or sleeping nets.) Check with a doctor who is knowledgeable in the latest practices. And be aware that in some Western countries the public health services require their citizens to use such a prophylactic when they travel in malaria countries or they cannot claim treatment at home if they contract the disease.

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Bed Bugs
Bed Bugs - Not related to mosquitoes, but extremely annoying is the problem of bed bugs. This is not a widespread a problem as one would suspect, considering the look of many low-end hotel rooms, perhaps because many such hotels anticipate the problem and spray rooms and beds regularly. Most hotels will let you have a look at the room before you check in. Look for tiny blood smears or stains on the sheets or even the walls. Or look in the cracks on the bed or under the mattress for dead bugs. If you find your room does have bed bugs, move immediately to another hotel.

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Other Medical Concerns

AIDS - AIDS has been spreading in India, as in many other countries, at an alarming rate. If you do not already have a good idea of the seriousness of this disease, know how it is transmitted, and what precautions you must take, OR if you do not think AIDS can or will infect you if you are careless, then you should stop reading this web site, and head to one on AIDS. Apply the same caution in India that you should apply anywhere else. And make sure that others you deal with are also cautious. This is particularly true with medical personnel. Every good doctor or hospital in India will be acutely aware of the seriousness of the AIDS epidemic. However, as with many other areas of your experience in India, it is important to be pro-active. Make sure any syringes used are disposable and properly sealed. Better yet, carry your own syringes. And watch how they are handled by the medical people. There are excellent, aware doctors and medical staff in India, but, unfortunately, there are also incompetent ones. Even in good hospitals carelessness can happen. Be pro-active.

Hepatitis - There are several strains of the Hepatitis virus. Hepatitis-A is fecal borne and good hygiene and care about drinking water should protect you. Hepatitis-B and some other strains are transmitted in a similar manner to AIDS. Protect your self the same way. There is a vaccination available for Hepatitis-B and you may consider asking a doctor's advice about taking it, especially if you frequently travel in India and other parts of Asia.

Dehydration and Sun/Heat Stroke - The sun and the heat it generates can be a powerful force in India,even in the cooler winter months. You may not notice the process of dehydration until weakness and dizziness set in. Make it a point to drink a lot of liquids, especially water. Rehydration salts from a medical shop may help. You can eat them as powder or mix them in water.

Sunburn - Be wary of sunburn. Use a sunscreen. Wear a hat. Good sunglasses will protect your eyes. Avoid too much activity in the hotter parts of the day. Go native. Take a siesta if you can.

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Common Hazards

The overwhelming majority of people you meet in your travels in India will not want to do you any physical harm. A few might want to part you from some of your money by overcharging or conning you. A few might be offensive, overly curious, or insensitive. Many will be extremely friendly, helpful, and well intentioned. In short, the people are probably a lot like those in your own country.

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Petty theft
In India you do need to be careful of petty theft and minor scams but incidents of violence directed at travelers and snatch-and-grab crimes like purse or camera snatching are rare. (Gold chain snatching is frequently reported in urban papers, but this won't target foreign travelers. Indian women wearing the traditional marriage necklace are the victims)

What you are more likely to encounter, besides the inevitable auto rickshaw driver demanding a higher fare, are stealth crimes (a bag disappears on the train, a hand sneaks into a backpack) or some kind of scam (a friendly stranger offers to arrange a ticket and disappears with the money). You should maintain the same kind of awareness and watchfulness you employ in your own country. If a situation doesn't seem right, or you don't feel safe, take precautions. Be careful, but don't be paranoid.

Most times in India there will be a lot of people around. This can be sometimes annoying, but it also offers security. Passers-by will usually be quick to offer assistance if they sense you are having a problem. If you do encounter a threat in India it will most likely be in an isolated spot. Beaches at night are a classic problem area, especially near cities. They tend to be deserted except for bored young men from the city who may hang out there a recipe for trouble.

Similarly, tourist spots which are largely deserted have lately been a source of problems. The sprawling ruins of Hampi, for one, have had a few incidents, though the police are usually quick to take preventative action especially where foreign tourists are involved.

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Scams
India has its share of scam artists. (Here we are discussing minor scams that might affect travelers, not the major ones where politicians get caught with fingers in the State cookie jar.) These vary from an autorickshaw driver or a fruit seller overcharging you, to serious con artists who will attempt to part you from your money or possessions. Places where foreigners come in large numbers tend to offer the most problems. Delhi is infamous for scamsters. Here is a small sampling of some common scams:

That hotel is no good. You catch a taxi or auto to a hotel that's been recommended. On the way, your driver informs you that the hotel is closed, or no good anymore, and suggests a "better" hotel. Better for him, of course, as they pay a commission. Stick to your original plan.

The friendly ticket taker. You are approached in the station by a Ticket Inspector, complete with clipboard and black jacket. He helps you find your train, gets you aboard, and warns you about thieves. Once he's gone you may find your camera is missing, or your tickets are gone. Genuine Ticket Inspectors are very busy people, and will not have time to help individual travelers. Decline offers for help.

The helpless refugee. You are approached, often at the main Post Office, by someone speaking very good English. The conversation is general, but it is gradually revealed that the poor gentlemen has recently run into a touch of bad luck, perhaps he's a refugee, or was recently unfairly fired. Nothing, of course, that a few dollars wouldn't alleviate. It is probably just a high class pan-handle. Your generous donation would probably be better applied to a legitimate charity.

The common denominator is generally that you are approached and offered help or drawn into conversation. When you find that someone is going seriously out of their way to help you out, it pays to wonder why. Be friendly, but a bit suspicious, and don't be afraid to decline the assistance. If the other person is persistent, then you should assume there is more in it for him than for you.

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Harassment
Indian society has a strong tradition of politeness to strangers, to women, and to the elderly. Unfortunately, as in many Western countries, this traditional politeness has been eroded over the years, much to the dismay of most Indians. Indian papers occasionally report incidents of harassment of young Indian women. This is usually cat-calling and suggestive behavior indulged in by young men and is quaintly referred to as "Eve Teasing". Indian women also may experience incidents of groping on public transit.

Western travelers are not immune. In fact, there is a commonly held view that Westerners, particularly women, have loose morals. This view has developed from exposure to Western media, from contact with insensitive Western travelers, and from the huge contrast between what is acceptable dress or behavior in India and that in the West. As a rule, the more touristy a place is, the more poorly behaved some locals might be.

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Prevention is important
Preventing situations from developing in the first place is important. Dressing and behaving appropriately helps a lot. Do not promote undue familiarity, especially if you are a woman. Indian women keep a good distance from men who are strangers. Touching, even hand shaking, is inappropriate. ("Namaste", with palms pressed in front of you is the most appropriate greeting if you want to maintain distance.) Indian women would not sit close to a man they don't know. Nor would they entertain idle conversation with a stranger. Not keeping this distance would be offering a mixed message.

Do not wait until someone has stepped over the bounds considered inappropriate in your country. Instead, judge actions by what is proper in India. If you find that some man is being overly friendly, making physical contact, or generally being even slightly improper, be on guard immediately. It is much easier to politely deflect an incident or distance yourself in the early stages than when things have gone too far.

Sometimes a polite warning is refused, or someone does something inappropriate without warning. What then? If possible, try not to over react. Determined action is always more effective. If you cannot get your point across politely but firmly, then be rude if necessary. And don't be afraid to alert bystanders that you are having a problem. But do not get physical.

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Avoiding Physical Action
Physical action is usually not appropriate. Violence is frowned on in India, in part because it can very easily get out of hand. If you should see an altercation between Indians, it would consist mainly of a great deal of shouting, insults, and angry hand gestures. People would rarely come to blows, or even push or shove. Usually, friends or bystanders will intervene and gradually the whole thing dies down.

Physical action - shoving, punching, or throwing something - can create a lot of problems, beyond the obvious one that someone's friends will rally and kick your ass. You could end up with the police, and possibly have a case filed against you. It will put a real crimp in your trip. Better to swallow your anger, remove your ego from the scene, and try and extricate yourself quickly from the situation non-violently.

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Food

India offers one of the most varied cuisines of any place on the planet. However, many visitors have not been exposed to the full variety of foods that are available in India and tend to stick to the same dishes they order in their favorite Indian restaurant at home. To help people break new ground in ordering, INDAX would like to offer some descriptions of regional specialties you can look for as you travel.

Also, since a lot of Westerners have a bit of difficulty with a constant diet of spicy foods, we've included a few suggestions on Western-style eating for those times you can't face another plate of curried something-or-other. Those unfortunates who have used cutlery all their lives might like to scan the instructions on the gracious art of eating with your fingers. Indian foods are best appreciated with nothing between you and the eating experience.

It is inaccurate to lump all Indian food together as each area has regional variations, though these distinctions are blurring. These days you will find North Indian dishes commonly available in the South, and South Indian specialties in the North. However, there are some distinctive foods commonly served in the South, and we'll try and describe them.

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Restaurants
First, a word about restaurants. In India, only a fancy place would call itself a restaurant. Most Indian-style places call themselves "hotels". (Don't go looking for rooms at most of these hotels. You have go to a "Lodge" for that.) Sometimes they are called "cafes" (pronounced Kef), and they are not to be confused with European style cafes.

The most common Indian hotels, especially in South India, are strictly vegetarian. No meat, no eggs. There are non-vegetarian places, sometimes called "military hotels", and they will serve omelets or fried eggs, as well as veg and non-veg dishes. Most up-scale establishments offer both veg and non-veg cuisine.

In most Indian eating establishments, you do not linger once you've eaten. You order, you eat, you drink a coffee, and pay the bill and leave. In fact, coffee is so clearly the last step of eating that once you order it, you get the bill. This is a bit confusing to the Western traveler used to starting breakfast with a coffee, having another mid way, and then lingering over the final cup. Not done, unless you are in a place that serves Western type food.

If you want to linger - to read a book or newspaper, or leisurely chat with friends - you should try and find a place that allows that. Usually, it will be at least a bit up-scale and pricier. Same with smoking. You cannot smoke in a veg restaurant, though small tea shops will let you. In non-veg establishments it is usually okay. If in doubt, look about on the floor for butts. Ash trays are found only in fancy places.

Picking a good place to eat can be tricky, as it is any where in the world. The bigger the place you are visiting, the better the range of eateries. Busy, popular places are your best bet, and asking the locals for a good hotel usually pays off. You'll soon get an idea what kind of food is served in different kinds of establishments. Experiment with food and with restaurants. You'll be an expert in no time.

You cannot worry too much about dirt. Sanitation standards will not be what you're used to, but if food is freshly prepared and the surroundings regularly cleaned you should be okay. You can only control elements that affect you directly. Make sure the glass, plate and cutlery are clean. Wash your hands well. Carry your own water. If the place has to gleam spotlessly you'll be eating only at five star hotels.

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Eating Meat

India is one of the best countries in the world to travel as a vegetarian in, but if you eat meat, you may not want to miss some of the excellent meat dishes served here. However, it is wise not to consume meat on the scale that many do in the West.

India is a hot country, and in the traditional Indian medical thinking, some foods, including meats, heat your body. If you over-consume meat, especially in hot weather, you can create problems in your body. There is an affliction called "overheat" which is attributed to eating too much meat (say chicken twice in one day). There is no Western medical diagnosis that I have heard of, but having had overheat on a couple of occasions I would describe it as some kind of dehydration. You feel awful and your kidneys don't seem to function too well. To counter the effects of "heating" foods, take "cooling" foods, like yogurt and rice. And curb your meat and alcohol consumption in really hot weather.

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South Indian Rice Meals
Traditionally for lunch and dinner Southerners eat rice meals - the famous thali which really should be eaten with your fingers. (See "The gracious art of eating with you fingers" below) You can still find it served on a banana leaf, though it is now most commonly served on a stainless steel platter, surrounded by small dishes of sauces, curries, and curd (yogurt). The heart of the thali is rice, though sometimes you get a few deep fried puris, followed by rice. The thali is always vegetarian, though in some non-veg restaurants you can order an extra meat side dish.

(If the thali is served on a banana leaf, it is good hygiene to sprinkle just a little of your bottled water on the leaf and carefully wash it with your fingers. Do not rub against the veins of the leaf, or it may tear. Then tip the water off onto the table or floor. Watch others around you for the technique.)

The size and quality of the thali varies with the restaurant. "Limited meals" come with a fixed portion of rice and are cheaper, these days around Rs 15 – 20. They may include curd, and you can usually get more of the curries and sauces, but not more rice. "Full Meals" are just that. All you can eat. More rice, more curries, and they will always include curd and often a sweet for dessert. Usually, however, you will only get one papadum, a disappointment to many Brits. Full meals range from Rs 25 up to Rs 40 or so in the fancier places. As a rule, the more you pay, the better the selection of curries and extras you get with the meal.

Normally, the curries that come with a thali are spicy, but not unbearably so. Try them all, and don't eat ones that you find too spicy. All thalis will include a small amount of spicy pickle. This is usually very red, and very pungent. Be warned. You may also want to avoid the white, milky "buttermilk" that comes with a meal, since this is usually a curd and water mixture. The water may not be safe. That is about the only thing on your thali that will not be cooked.

With the Full Meals, start off with a medium amount of rice and ask for a bit more as you finish that. You can ask for as many servings as you like so pace yourself and try not to leave too much unfinished food. Besides being wasteful, it is also a bit rude.

Don't mix all the elements of the thali together. The thali offers great variety of flavours which should be savored in different combinations, as your taste buds decide. The normal order of eating a thali is to start with the curries and perhaps a dhal. Mix different amounts of these with the rice and try them. Then you can graduate to the thicker sauces, usually presented in small bowls. You can cleanse the palate with some rice and rasam, the thinnest sauce almost like a soup. Your final amount of rice is mixed with the curd, possibly salted, and eaten with bits of the spicy pickle. Dessert, if provided, can follow. (The dessert is often a sort of custard or pudding put in a bowl similar to the curries. It might be distinguished by a spoon stuck in it. Mixing this into the rice would advertise that you don't eat thalis very often.)

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South Indian Breakfast & Snacks
Southern cuisine offers much in the way of vegetarian snack foods, commonly called "tiffin". These are eaten for breakfast, and at any other time of day, though some tiffin is only available in the morning and other things usually at night. Tiffin dishes are usually served with a pair of teaspoons, and the idea is to use both to eat with (one in each hand). This is not mandatory, and you may use your fingers, though some dishes could get messy with your fingers. Follow your instincts here.

Try as many things as possible, especially when you find a restaurant that cooks them well. Unfortunately, these days, I find the quality of tiffin in many places is not what it once was. The cost of labour or ingredients makes some establishments cut corners. However, when you find a good place, here are some items to look for.

Iddli The ubiquitous South Indian breakfast food. These are fat little cakes of a rice/lentil mixture that are fermented overnight and then steamed. They are served, like almost all tiffin, with a thick tomato/lentil sauce (sambar) and a spicy coconut chutney. Commonly served in the mornings, they are unpretentious, nutritious, and cheap. A Cornell nutritionist once described the humble iddli as the most perfect food - low in fat, balanced in nutrition, and low cost.

Dosa or dosai Made with a similar batter to the iddli, these large, thin crepes are fried golden and served with sambar and chutney. The famous masala dosai is filled with potato curry.

Vada or Vadai This looks like a donut, but it isn't sweet. It's made from an urad lentil batter, with onions, spices, and often ginger bits, then deep fried. Ordering "iddli-vadai" will usually get you a plate with two iddli and one vadai.

Thyre Vada or Dahi Vada These are vada soaked in thick yogurt sauce. Great for breakfast.

Chapatti Wheat flour dough is rolled flat and fried on a griddle. You can ask for dry-fried, of oil fried. These may be served with veg or non veg curries.

Parotha Wheat flour is rolled very flat, in oil, and pressed into a multi-layered variation on chapatti. These are most common with non veg fare.

Puri Made like a chapatti, but deep fried. The best ones arrive at your table puffed up like soccer balls. Careful, the steam inside is hot. Usually served with a potato curry.

Samosas Here you are getting into food more commonly found in non-veg restaurants, though samosa can be filled with a veg or non veg filling.

Biryani or Pulao Rice, spices, and vegetable or meat cooked up together. Tasty, but a bit heavy.

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North Indian Vegetarian

North Indian cuisine, particularly "Mughlai or Moghul Style" cooking, has made strong inroads into South India over the last 20 years. This is the predominant cuisine in Indian restaurants overseas, and most cities and larger towns in the South will have at least some establishments offering veg and non-veg dishes. The following Hindi terms will help you negotiate the menu.

Aloo: Potato
Gobi: Cauliflower
Palak: Spinach
Bhendi: Okra (Lady Fingers)
Mattar: Peas
Paneer: mild farmer's-style cheese
Dahi: Yogurt
Channa: Chickpeas
Dhal: Lentils

These are ordered a la carte, and can be served with rice, chapatti, puri, or parotha, and also with naan and roti, special breads baked in the clay Tandoor oven.

North Indian Non-vegetarian
North Indian non-veg cooking relies a lot on the tandoor oven. Marinated and baked meats are usually eaten with the breads also cooked in the ovens. Here are some terms that might help.

Kheema : Minced meat
Kababs : usually ground meat, sometimes chunks, cooked on skewers
Tikka : pieces of boneless meat or fish, sometimes paneer, marinated and cooked on skewers in the tandoor.
Tandoori Chicken : Jointed pieces of chicken, marinated and cooked on skewers in the tandoor.

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Western Style Food
There was a time when Western food was hard to find. These days there is quite a bit more available, and sometimes it is okay, sometimes even good. Unfortunately it is rarely excellent, except maybe in the fancy 5-star hotels. The standard menus borrow heavily on British boarding house cuisine – palatable but uninspired. Cutlets, fish and chips, sandwiches, soups, soggy pastas and the inevitable custard pudding.

Chinese food, now commonly available, isn't much to write about either. It usually consists of fried rice and red, pre-packaged sauces, and may be spiced considerably for the Indian palate. Pizza has hit India, and can be ordered in many major centres now, even arriving by scooter at your home or hotel. Results range from mediocre to adequate, but improving all the time. If you've been overdosing on curries you may be pleasantly surprised, but be careful you don't accidentally order some curry flavored toppings.

What most Westerner travelers seem to miss the most is a good breakfast. For many, curry in the morning just doesn't make it. Toast and eggs can be found (at a non veg place), but usually it means sweet white bread, eggs dripping with oil, bubble gum flavored jam, and weak instant coffee. So, once in a while, if you've reached the point where you cannot look another iddli in the face, maybe its time to consider the buffet breakfasts most fancy hotels in the major cities offer. These are usually the most reasonably priced meals they serve, varying from Rs 100 to 200, and they give you a lot. Start with juice and fresh fruit, move on to croissants and pastries, order some eggs any way you like them, and drink all the coffee or tea you want. They usually have a few newspapers to look through as you munch your sausages. It's a good feed, and not bad economy, as, after a late breakfast you may not want lunch. Plus it is nice to be pampered once in a while. Make it an occasional ritual.

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Art of Eating

There is no way around it. Indian food tastes best when eaten with your fingers. There is a tactile dimension added to the eating process. Besides, Indian foods are designed to be eaten by hand. Breads are to be torn and wrapped around foods. Rice is customarily blended with curries so each mouthful is unique. If you eat off a banana leaf (still possible in many places) trying to use a knife and fork would shred your " plate ". Eating with your fingers is a cultural experience everyone should experience while visiting India.

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A problem for some

Surprisingly, many Westerners have a problem eating with their fingers. For some, it's a squeamishness in being that intimate with your food. For others, it's hygiene. (Actually, eating with your fingers allows you greater control over cleanliness factors. You can, and should, wash your hands well before eating. Get them as clean as you like. Then try and forget early table training, and recapture some of the early childhood joy of playing with your food.) Others have difficulty with technique, especially when rice is involved. You can't go back to the" fistful of food " method you perfected when you were two.

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The Technique

The secret to gracefully eating with your fingers is this: " Use your thumb. " Food, say a small amount of rice, is collected in a small pile on your plate, blended with one or more bits of curry, and then picked up with a twist of the wrist and held on the four fingers of your hand. The thumb remains free. Keeping the food level, maneuver your fingers to your mouth until the tips of your fingers are almost, or just, touching your lower lip. Don't put your fingers into your mouth. Use your thumb to pop the food inside. It is a simple technique, and it works. A meal or two of practicing and you'll be eating like a native.

There are conventions of good manners when eating with the fingers, but they do change a bit from area to area. The most basic is that in the North of India it is polite to dirty only the first two segments of your fingers. Since Northerners eat a lot of breads and generally have drier curries, this doesn't pose much difficulty. In the South, where they eat lots more rice, and enjoy very soupy curries, you can get your whole hand into the action. Try not to get carried away, though. Having curry juices running down toward the elbow would be considered a bit low class.

It is very important to eat with your right hand only. Your left hand is reserved for other functions (toilet related) and should not handle food, especially other people's food. Usually, your left hand rests on the table or your lap while you eat. Though it is acceptable to take a piece of bread, say, in your left hand and tear off pieces with your right, it is better to only use the right hand, pinning the bread with your little finger and tearing with your thumb and forefinger. You should use your clean left hand to serve yourself (using a utensil) or pass a plate of food. Don't plunge either hand into food in a communal serving dish.

The question of what a left-handed person should do is a bit complicated. If it is at all possible, try and eat with your right hand. If it is too awkward, use the left, but perhaps explain to your dinner companions that you are left handed and cannot eat with your right hand. (Perhaps someone out there can enlighten us further as to the best solution.)

Finally, there are places in India where eating with your hand is frowned upon - most notably the Indian food buffets at fancy restaurants. If it's a classy place, and cutlery is provided, you are probably expected to use it. Look around, and if no one else is digging in with their fingers, you may want to toe the line.

Cultural Pointers

India offers a diverse, varied, and fascinating culture. It has a long history of tolerance, and has been able to accommodate tremendous variety in culture, religion and social levels. Yet at heart, India is grounded in tradition. Even among young Indian Yuppies there are distinctly Indian ways of doing things - ideas of fashion, gender roles, attitudes toward work, family, and life.

Having a basic awareness of some of the common perceptions and differences in attitudes in India will help visitors better understand what's going on around them, and perhaps reduce culture-based annoyances. Here are a few points visitors may want to consider.

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The basics of politeness
One's culture impresses from an early age that some actions are polite, others rude. While there are some universally accepted standards of politeness (like don't spit on people) other standards may vary by culture. Recognize that some behavior you may consider polite may not have the same emphasis in another culture, and vice versa.

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Left hand right hand - A very important, yet subtle, factor in India is avoiding the use of your left hand when interacting with others. In India, you use your left hand to clean yourself after using the toilet so it has extremely negative associations. ALWAYS give and receive anything with your right hand, or at least with both hands together. If you give change, accept something, or eat something with your left hand, it will be noticed, though politely not commented on. Using your right hand only is one of the easiest things for Westerners to forget to do, but it makes a difference. A friend who has been coming to India for more than a decade, but only recently made it a point to only use his right hand, said he really noticed how much people appreciated him making an attempt. It may mean a bit of extra effort at first, but it will be appreciated, and will soon become automatic. Even if you are left handed, try and adjust as much as possible.

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Be careful of your shoes - Shoes, and to a lesser degree, feet, also have unclean associations. Keep you shoes on the floor. You can put bare feet up on a chair or train seat, but not your shoes. And try not to touch others with your feet or shoes. You'll notice Indians on the train making a simple gesture of apology if they accidentally touch someone with their feet. It is a quick gesture where the right hand, palm out, is extended toward the point of contact and drawn back, palm in, toward the chin or chest. Remove your shoes for places of worship, when visiting people's homes, and sometimes even in some shops and businesses. Look about, and if you see shoes arranged near the door, assume you should take yours off too.

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Staring is okay - Staring at strangers is a Western cultural taboo that does not carry the same weight here. Many people feel quite free to stare at anything, or anyone, different. Most Western visitors, at some point in their time here, will experience intense, and disconcerting, staring. Interpreting this as rudeness is unproductive. Remember, you are quite an unusual creature in this setting. Many people on the streets will have had little contact with foreigners. What you look like, what you do, and how you behave will generate intense interest. Don't get angry or try to "educate" people on the idea that staring is rude. It will only increase curiosity, and frustrate you. Relax. Let people look. After all, you are doing your own exploration of the people and places here. What you are reacting to is not so much the staring, but your cultural interpretation of the action.

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Getting personal - People you meet may ask you questions that seem extremely personal from a Western perspective. How old are you? How much money do you make? How much did that cost? These are questions Westerners are conditioned not to ask directly, though indirect queries often draw out the information. Here, people who want to know are more likely to ask directly, and mean no rudeness in doing so. Try not to get huffy. In fact, conversations like these are great to turn around and ask details of the other person that you may not normally ask. Find out the reality behind at least some of the many faces you'll encounter in your travels.

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Subtleties of language - It is a feature of most cultures that indirect speech is the most polite form. "Would you mind if I looked at this?" is considered more polite than "Show me that." This is also true in Indian languages but not all Indians speaking English are versed in the full form of the language and may inadvertently seem abrupt in their speech. The touts that have only learned a bit of English on the street aren't intentionally putting tourists off by barking rudely at them. Similarly, you may find it useful to simplify your English to get your point across. Saying "Where is the post office" may be clearer to someone than asking" Could you please tell me where I could find the post office?"

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I want to be alone - At times, most travelers in India feel a bit like Greta Garbo and just "vant to be alone". It is hard to do, sometimes, especially when you are moving around. Solitude is not a common desire for many except sadhus. Indians are social, gregarious people, as a rule, and train cars are often buzzing with conversations among passengers who are relative strangers to each other. Inevitably a traveling foreigner gets approached, and it is often the same old questions. "Where are you from?" "How do you like India?" It is hard not to get snippy sometimes. Try and be polite, and, if possible, turn the conversation towards something that does interest you. Often a few questions will satisfy the inquiring party and if not, you may be able to minimize conversation by excusing yourself to read, stare out the window, or retreat to your berth if its an upper one.

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Gestures don't always translate - Tourists quickly realize that the head wobble so common here means "yes" and not "no". Similarly, some Western gestures can be misinterpreted. The Western gesture for come here palm face up and moving as if you are throwing salt over your shoulder would be considered rude in India. The comparable Indian gesture is with the palm facing down and moving like you're doing the 'dog paddle'.

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Don't get too hung up on 'principle'
Some Western travelers have a tendency to focus on the principle of something. Being overcharged by a vendor even if the amount is small drives some people to fury. "It's the principle of the thing." Its not that the person trying to take advantage of you is unprincipled or lacks a sense of morality, it is just that sometimes things are relative.

Among merchants there may be a pride in getting the best of a customer. (In the same way, consumers take pride in their ability to shrewdly bargain.) If your culture says all customers should pay the same price and you feel it is crass to bargain you will find yourself in conflict here.

Similarly, there are many areas of conflict or aggravation that may stem from cultural differences. Try not to spend your time getting angry when things don't work the way you expected (from your cultural perspective). It would be more constructive to try and understand the motivations acting around you. Try not to label actions of others too quickly from your cultural bias. Try and understand the perspective of those you are dealing with. An auto driver who tries to get a higher fare than the meter is not driving home in a Porche. Most of them are living in some hovel in a part of town you'll never see, struggling to feed, clothe and educate their kids. They are exploited daily by the owners of the autos, the cops and other officials, and have to spend their waking hours driving in hellish traffic and polluted air. Their interest in the "principle" of using the meter is limited.

Don't assume that only foreigners get ripped off occasionally. Indians also have to haggle constantly over prices, and when they are out of their "home turf" they are cheated almost as much as foreign travelers.

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Respectful mistrust
Trust is an important "cultural fiction" in the West. Westerners like to trust others, even strangers up to a point - and consider trust to be a crucial element of a business or consumer relationship. If trust is destroyed, the relationship is damaged.

For many in India, the default mode in business dealings with others, especially with strangers, is respectful mistrust. It is a given assumption in India that the milkman will water the milk, that honey is adulterated, that oranges are overpriced. Similarly, the consumer will try and squeeze the best price from the vendor. The basic assumption is that others will cheat you if you are not careful, and the onus is on you to protect yourself. Since no trust is assumed, the relationship is not seriously damaged by one party trying to get an advantage over the other.

The ideal to strive for in dealings as a traveler here, is a good humored respectful mistrust. For some transactions, you can safely assume that the other person is interested in his or her own advantage, say, the highest price. You, of course, are interested in your own advantage. If you can, at least occasionally, work through the process of reaching an acceptable compromise with humor and mutual respect, you've arrived.

Don't forget to listen to explanations. There are often quirky little payments or requirements where you might not expect them. Ask why, and if the explanation makes sense, accept it. Do not assume each and every transaction is an attempted rip-off. Most people you interact with will be dealing honestly with you.

Keep things in perspective
This will make a big difference to your interactions in India. Remember that you're a traveler from a wealthier country. You may not feel you have much money but, to many here, you will seem well off. You don't want to get ripped off (who does?), but you won't always know the prices or what you should do so you'll occasionally get taken advantage of. It's part of the experience. Try not to take it personally. Indian travelers also get taken advantage of when they are out of their own area.

Remember that the world as defined by your own culture is only one manifestation of reality. Other perspectives are also valid, and certain elements of a different culture may actually suit your personality better than those you were raised with. Try and be aware of the positive aspects of the cultures you travel through. These could be the most valuable souvenir you return home with.

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Indian Toilets

Quite a few foreign visitors have a dread of Indian toilets. The squat-type toilets that are common in cheaper hotels are actually much more hygienic and healthier for the system than sit-down toilets. They just take a little getting used too. The most important thing is not to fall in. This seems self evident, but when the floor is slippery it is easy to do. You can get a nasty cut to your foot if you slip and the porcelain breaks along the rim.

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Starting Off

The first thing to do, before you use the toilet, is to pour a bit of water down it. This helps prevent anything from sticking and makes flushing easier. Stand on the two footpads at the edge of the keyhole shaped bowl with the large opening at the back of you. Hold on to something and squat over the bowl. You'll find this squat position aids in the defecation process. Once done, pour a bucket of water down the bowl to flush. Historically, all humans defecated this way, and still the bulk of the world's people prefers this method. Once they get used to it, many Westerners prefer it.

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A tissueless existence
Once you have mastered the squat toilet, you may want to try to give up that wasteful, environmentally damaging practice of using toilet paper. This is where most Western visitors draw the line, and spend their trip lugging rolls of expensive toilet paper around with them. Perhaps their early potty training was too vigorous.

If you do feel adventurous, here are some basic tips. You'll need about a litre of water. All Indian bathrooms have a little mug and a tap or a bucket of water. When you have finished, reach behind you and between your legs with your LEFT hand and, holding the full mug of water in your RIGHT hand, pour the water slowly into your left hand. You can pour from the front or the back - which ever feels most comfortable. Use the water in your cupped left hand to wash yourself. Repeat as many times as necessary. Air dry. When you are done, wash your hands well with soap.

If you learn to like this process (It leaves you cleaner and is much less wasteful than using toilet paper) you can adopt the technique for sit down toilets too. Just lean forward and pour the water from behind you.

You can carry your tissuelessness even further by buying a few of the cheap handkerchiefs sold at the roadside. For Rs.5-10 you get good cotton hankies, useful for mopping sweat, drying hands, or for when you have a cold. Rinse them out at night and save yourself all the expense and waste of tissues.

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Survival Languages

India is one of the most linguistically varied countries in the world and many Indians are multi-lingual. Even on the village level, it is common to encounter people speaking two, three, four, or more languages. And English, of varying quality, is often one of them.

It is quite easy to travel in India speaking only English. (Your English can be very basic, but you should have some ability. Even in former European territories, like Pondicherry or Goa, very few people speak the colonial language.)

However, making an attempt, however limited, to get around in a local language can have a magical effect and can enhance your India experience. When you can say " No " or ask directions in a local language, you're demonstrating your interest in the local culture and implying local experience. This earns you respect and makes interactions easier. Of course, it also creates the assumption that you speak more of the language than you do. One of the most useful phrases after "I don't want any " may be "I only speak a little. "

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Very basic phrases

The simple words suggested here, and the phrases you can build from them, are so basic that you'll be speaking only a "pigeon" form of the language. You will only be able to make a request or ask a simple question. You will not be able to interact with free speech. However, these words would get you started and you can easily add to your vocabulary as you go along. This is just to get you started.

Because in India so many English words have entered local languages and are commonly understood it is possible to learn some basic structure and local verbs, then use these with English nouns. The advocates for purity of various Indian languages may be justifiably outraged but it will help you get around. Later, if you have on interest in learning more there are books available everywhere. Local people will be quite helpful, both in correcting your pronunciation, if asked, and helping you add to your vocabulary.

Read the India Encyclopedia for the common phrases and terms.

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North India - Hindi

Hindi is the most common language around in India and almost everybody understands it. North Indian languages are mostly strains of Hindi. You can use the common Hindi phrases around anywhere in North India. But nowadays, common English phrases like car, aeroplane etc. are commonly incorporated into it. We have a section on common Hindi words in our India Encyclopedia section.

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South India Languagess

Tamil is the premier language in South India namely in Tamil Nadu. Malayalam is primarily used in Kerala and Telugu in Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka. Kannada is the prime language for Karnataka. The other regional languages like Malayalam, Kannada and Telugu have similar phrases with Tamil and are somewhat similar in semantics.

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East India Languages

Bengali is the popular language amongst the North East regions of India especially West Bengal. It is known as a literary language as many famous literary works are penned in it. The other regional languages are Oriya in Orissa, Assamese in Assam. Most of the tribal regions of Arunachal Pradesh, Mizoram etc. have their own dialects. But nowadays Hindi is being gradually accepted as a common language.

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West India Languages

Hindi is the common language around. Marathi is prevalent in Maharashtra mainly Pune and other cities. Gujarathi is the prime language for Guajarat and Marwari the language for Gujarat. Konkani ( a thread of Marathi) is the prime language for the state of Goa. But as with the western tourist influx, English is a very common around.

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What to Wear

As in any society, how you dress affects your experiences. Your fashion choices make a statement about your interests or intentions, and these statements are subject to cultural interpretation. The last few decades in Western countries have seen a revolution in fashion ideas, especially among the young, that would have shocked Westerners even two generations back. Though a small segment of urban India has been exposed to, and often accepted new fashion directions, most Indians hold a more conservative view.

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Which culture

While visiting India the traveler must decide from which culture to approach the country. Many Western travelers rarely seem to be able to put their own culture temporarily on hold and take a clear look at the new culture around them. The thinking seems to go "If, in Amsterdam men can wear tiny shorts and not much more on a hot, summer day and in L.A. women feel well dressed in a halter-top and cycling shorts why not dress that way in India?"They don't seem to notice that not one single adult Indian, male or female, wears shorts in public. Most Indians would consider wearing that skimpy an outfit to be about the same as wearing underwear. Indian tolerance ensures that such travelers get a better reception than if they tried walking around New York City in their knickers, but it does affect perceptions.

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Dress for the culture
Many travelers dress for their fellow travelers. The logic seems to be if it is funky in Toronto, why not Madras. The problem is that in Madras the majority of people you encounter will not have the Toronto perspective. Your funky outfit may come across as bizarre, comical, or overly suggestive. This is going to affect how people interact with you.

Your best guideline is to look around you, see what the locals are wearing, decide in good conscience what you would be comfortable wearing, and go from there. And adjust your dress as the situation changes. An outfit that will attract little attention on the beach at Kovalum or Goa may draw negative reactions in Hyderabad. And an urbane center like Bangalore will accommodate more casual dress than the temple town of Madurai.

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What women should consider
Dressing to fit in is more important for women who want to avoid unnecessary hassles. The standard advice is to cover your shoulders and your butt, and avoid showing cleavage. Definitely avoid the solid colored drawstring skirts sold everywhere. Those are petticoats to go under saris. Similarly, wearing the tight sari blouse with a pair of pants would be terribly suggestive. Wearing men's style Indian clothes will give a very confusing message as well.

Most Indian women wear some kind of traditional garment - the sari or the salwar kameez (baggy pants, long tunic top, and a scarf thrown over the shoulder). Saris are extremely difficult for Westerners to adjust to, but salwars are easy to wear and available ready made everywhere. They can be extremely cheap - as low as $5 for an outfit. If you can't find your size, you can have them tailored by any small tailoring outfit. Made of cotton, they are cool, flowing and elegant - suitable for any occasion, casual or formal. You'll be advertising an awareness of Indian conditions and will attract much less negative attention. Salwars are particularly well suited for train travel. If you have trouble with the scarf (which really should be worn) you can cheat by pinning it in place. Many do.

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Clean & Neat
Taking the trouble to dress appropriately will be wasted if you're putting on wrinkled or grimy clothes. Indians are quite fastidious about their apparel. All but the very poorest wear freshly washed and ironed clothes. This jars with Westerner's casual, easy-care approach to clothing, but it's worth the effort to be clean and neat. Street side ironing booths will iron anything for a couple of rupees. Even the cheapest hotel will offer some kind of laundry and ironing service. Or you can wash things yourself. Most anything dries overnight. If you can't find the time to care for your clothes you're moving too fast.

There are a surprising number of young Western travelers moving about India who seemed to have abandoned all attempts at personal hygiene. Wearing dirty, stained clothing and with greasy matted hair it is possible they see themselves in solidarity with the very poorest of India's poor. Perhaps they are blissing out on a temporary detachment from material possessions. This may seem fine for privileged children of the West who are here with return tickets and adequate cash, but it offends and disgusts most Indians. In India, personal cleanliness is the most basic of virtues, and most people are fighting a daily battle to maintain whatever level of personal cleanliness and order that their socioeconomic situation allows.

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Religious Places

coming soon

Train Tips

coming soon

Travelling Needs

Don't bring too much.
There is a perception of India as lacking in creature comforts and material goods. Not true. A traveler could easily arrive in India with nothing more than the clothes they're wearing, a passport, and some cash. Everything else can be purchased here. The price, if not always the quality, would be better than they'd pay at home. And many purchases made here would be more appropriate for local conditions. The message - don't bring too much. Travel light.

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Buy Things Here

Not only does it help the economy, but also you'll usually save money. Buying much of your gear locally helps ensure you're well suited to the culture and climate. This is particularly true of clothes, which make up the bulk of most travellers' baggage. The clothing most Westerners perceive as appropriate casual wear for a hot climate may be extremely inappropriate here. Westerners deal with heat by wearing skimpier clothing. This is not the best way to deal with the heat and blazing sun. Indians opt for more flowing garments in cool cottons and you will realize why. (Please see the fashion section of "Culture Clashes " for some suggestions here) Either you'll wear those summery clothes you bought and get unnecessary hassles and sunburns or you'll carry them around while you wear something more suitable.

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Leave your sleeping bag at home

Unless you plan extensive trekking in the mountains, a sleeping bag may prove cumbersome. Especially in South India, where the climate is fairly warm even in the winter months, a locally bought, hand woven bed spread is much better for use on the train or in a budget hotel than a fancy sleeping bag, and much more versatile. It can be tossed around the shoulders like a shawl if its chilly, folded into a cushion on a long train ride, used as a towel in a pinch, and function as a beach mat at the ocean. It will look great back home, too.

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Shop in big cities

Not everything is available everywhere, of course. Many products cater only to the urban middle class and will be most easily found in the larger centres. Keep that in mind if you are heading off to a rural setting for a few months. However, most travelers pass through the bigger cities regularly and shouldn't have many problems.

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What you might need

Here is a listing of some of the things that are still difficult to find here.

Swiss Army knife - Useful for all manner of emergencies, from opening beer to repairing shoes.
Small flashlight - Can be bought here, but a little Maglite is a joy.
Towels - The ones here don't seem to be very absorbent. Bring a small towel. It will usually dry fast.
Cotton socks - They seem to sell thin nylon socks here. Good cotton socks would be more appropriate.
A good, small lock - These are available in India, but a foreign one will be much harder to pick, if anyone is so inclined.
Women's swim wear - Available here, but most of it would please your grandmother more than you.
Cameras and computer gear - Latest models are not available, and prices may be higher.

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What you won't need to bring

You can buy most types of toiletries in India. Soap, tooth paste, shampoo, tooth brushes, disposable razors, shave creams, even contact lens solutions and cotton swabs. Besides a range of international brands selling everything, you'll have a chance to try Ayurvedic shampoo preparations, soaps made with sandal wood oil, toothpaste with neem, and other exotic toiletries you won't see at home. Tampons (only Regular size, though), condoms, and sanitary pads (but not Mini pads), as well as most over the counter medical preparations and any prescription drug you'd care to name are available. Do not bring a large medical kit. Drug prices in India are very cheap and the quality is good. Unless you have a specific medicine you need to take regularly, buy your kit here.

Contact lenses, eyeglasses, even good quality dental work are available in India at a fraction of the cost of that in Western countries. So are watches, clocks, flashlights, and leather goods. So are most batteries, including common watch and camera types, though less common camera battery types may be difficult. Film and film processing is readily available. You'll get the best quality processing at the larger film labs in big cities, but many small outlets do acceptable work.

There are bags, wallets, and garments of all types: jeans, T-shirts, dresses and suits, as well as traditional Indian fashions. India exports large amounts of these goods to the rest of the world. Major cities have streets selling fair quality " seconds " for ridiculously low prices. (Just remember they are seconds and will have at least some minor flaw.) Major international clothing brands also sell their products in up-scale stores.

There are a great variety of shoes made in India with a range of styles and quality. The selection will be best in the larger centres, as will the range of sizes. However, large sizes are hard to find. American men's size 10-11 is the common upper limit.

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Go to the nearest tailor

If clothing size is a problem, you can get something made to your size very cheaply. Just remember not to over tax the ability of the tailor. If you want Fifth Avenue style and workmanship, you'll have to go to an up-market tailoring firm. Men can get suits, pants, shirts and overcoats made. Women can order dresses, blouses, skirts and the local salwar kameez - the flowing pant/shirt combinations. Many things can be ready overnight or even in a few hours, but leave enough time for alterations if necessary.

You can often pick styles from current international fashion catalogues, but remember that the tailors may not be totally familiar with the style. Just buy the fabric of choice (fabric shops usually have fixed prices) and ask them how much you need. The tailor will take your measurements. If the finished product is not a good fit he will alter it for you at no charge. As for quality, examine some items the tailor has already made. If you would be satisfied with that level of quality, go ahead. If not, find a tailor with more ability. And make sure the work is done well at all stages. Arrange for several fittings, if need be, to get things right. And always try out a tailor with some less important piece before you hand over expensive material with great expectations of the results.

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Visas

Just about any traveler needs a visa to enter India. It is a pain, and is the first exposure most people get to the bureaucratic processes here. A recent BBC report on travelling in India snidely thanked the Indian embassies abroad for keeping the number of tourists down so that the intrepid could enjoy an undiscovered country. In truth, the government here advocates increased tourism, (it's a major foreign exchange earner and source of employment) but the bureaucratic legacy and a lingering fear of foreigners seem to get in the way.

India's neighbours (Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, etc.) compete much more successfully in the tourism arena. They give citizens of a large number of countries an automatic one-month visa on arrival. Only longer visits require a visa, though sometimes extensions are granted inside the country with the payment of a fee. (In Thailand, there is a five dollar a day fine for overstaying) India should consider some similar program, especially as an increasing number of tourists are winging in on charter flights and coming for shorter trips.

The Indian government seems to have missed the fact that the makeup of Western tourists to India has changed. In the past, though the government went to great lengths to attract a moneyed group of tourists, it was mostly young, hippie travelers that wandered the country on the cheap for months or even years at a time. Today, though there are still a lot of these ultra-budget travelers, India is attracting a growing group of visitors, old and young, who take in one area of the country at a time, on short holiday breaks. These tourists, though not flaunting the overly fat wallets the government dreams of, spend well and travel widely. They tend to frequent the mid-range hotels and visit out of the way tourist spots, spreading their financial contribution more widely among the population. The government needs to rethink its policies toward such travelers.

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Visa Requirements
Make sure you check with an Indian embassy or consulate near you about what visa you should get, then arrange for it. If there is no Indian Consulate in your town, you may have to send off your passport in the mail, fill out various forms, and pay a fee. It is easiest if you apply in your home country since, if you are on the road already, you may have to pay extra charges for for "clearance" from the Indian embassy in your home country. If you will be travelling a while before fax arriving in India, make sure your visa will be valid when you arrive.

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Get a long visa
For many reasons, India catches the imagination of travelers and, once here, some are reluctant to leave when they intended to. Get a visa for longer than you think you'll need as it is difficult, sometimes impossible, to extend one once you are here. Even the Indian embassies in countries neighboring India may be reluctant to issue another visa if you recently left India.

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Multiple Entry
Ask for a multiple entry visa, since an exit to Nepal or Sri Lanka will cancel a single entry visa, even if there is a lot of time left on it. Even if you plan to only visit India you may want to get a multiple entry stamp since many people's plans change when they get here. In the heat of the summer, a quick trip to Nepal may sound refreshing. Or you meet someone who is heading off to Sri Lanka or the Maldives. (Wanna come along?)

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Restrictions
Visas to India are subject to restrictions that the Government changes periodically. Depending on political situations, insurgencies, border tensions, or whatever, some area or another may be off limits to foreigners. As a rule it is not a major hardship as most people wouldn't want to be traveling there anyway. Any current guide book will keep you up dated as to where you shouldn't go. And should you want to sneak in, just for the hell of it, don't. The government, army, or whoever catches you will not be amused, or very friendly.

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Drugs and the Law
For the traveler coming to India to recreate the freewheeling days of the Sixties, a few words of warning. Indian drug laws have undergone considerable change. There is now a MANDATORY TEN-YEAR SENTENCE for possession of even small amounts of drugs. More than a few foreigners languish in Indian jails on drug charges.

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Other Official Stuff
As mentioned, India loves its bureaucracy. Travelers encounter bureaucratic paper shuffling that ranges from the quaint to the comical. And occasionally the offensive. For example, the odious Foreigner's Registration Form that foreign travelers fill in at every hotel is based on the Foreigner's Registration Act of 1939 – a harsh act the war-time British Government enacted to track enemy aliens. The government claims it is still necessary to control "unfriendly visitors" (read Pakistani agents) and spends a great deal of time, energy and paperwork in this monitoring process. However, I suspect that such agents (rife in India by some newspapers' accounts) can easily pass as Indian citizens. So can Indians who have taken citizenship in other countries. The regulation now basically targets and tracks visible foreigners from Western countries. Ironically, these are the very visitors the government wants to encourage.

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Registration
If you come to India on a visa other than "Tourist", you may be required to register with the local authorities after 6 months. This involves a visit to the local "Foreigner's Registration Office" and, of course, more bureaucracy. In the past, few foreigners lived long-term in India, and most of these worked as missionaries. The government kept a close watch on them. These days, though there are still comparatively few foreigners living here, most are involved in some kind of business activity. Of course, the bureaucracy continues.

If you stay in India longer than two years, you will be required to take an AIDS test. It is not clear whether this is because you may have brought the disease with you (then why wait two years to test someone?) or because you'll have had enough time to catch it here (India is one of the countries with the fastest growing AIDS population). Unfortunately, this test must be taken at a Government Hospital, which may actually increase your risk factor.

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Motorcycle Driving

Ah, driving an Enfield around India. The fabled "Bullet". Big, throaty engine, vintage looks, and the wide open Indian road. It doesn't get better than this. Or does it?

There is no denying the appeal of the classic Indian Enfield Bullet. Originally developed by the Royal Enfield Company of England and first imported, then manufactured in India, this classic design motorcycle has caught the imagination of bike enthusiasts around the world. Touring India on an Enfield, either rented or bought, is a dream for many. And it's quite attainable. But a few words of caution might be in order, not to dissuade the dreamer, but to inject a little reality.

I have a Bullet. I love it. It has that great BUDDA BUDDA sound, head turning styling and sufficient size so that my big frame doesn't make me look like a Shriner clown on a motorized skateboard. But let me confess, owning a Bullet is a pain in the butt.

If you do get a Bullet and plan to go touring around India, there are some things to consider. Get the best machine you can, plan your trip carefully, carry some crucial tools and spares, and drive EXTREMELY defensively.

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Bullet Ups and Downs

Bullets are big bikes, as heavy as many 750cc bikes would be. But it's only a 350cc, and under-powered. (Enfield now makes a 500cc, but I've not tried it. It looks exactly the same as the 350 but will probably benefit from the extra power.

The Bullet is also poorly balanced top heavy so cornering is affected and it's awkward to push. It also has pathetically weak brakes. The front brake will often not even hold a stationary bike on a slight hill. The rear brake grips better but the drum shoes need frequent changing or they tend to lock. These are drum brakes, but I recently saw a small ad offering to convert your Bullet to disk brakes, for about Rs 6,000 or so. If I see the ad again, I'll post it here. You need good brakes on Indian roads. (Also, I believe the export model of the Bullet offers better brakes, at least on the front wheel.)

Bullets are temperamental creatures – each one unique. They seem to need constant fiddling and tinkering, a timing adjustment here, carb tuning there. It helps if you know a bit about bikes. I didn't, but I'm learning fast.

Bullets always have something wrong with them. It is usually not serious but my Bullet mechanic is a regular stop when ever I go around town. Here's the list from my three year old bike from the past month.

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I fixed the tail light (which fell off).
My mechanic changed my brake pads and showed me that the bearings are shot in the rear wheel. There was (yet another) short in the electrical system and when I tried to fix it myself I blew out all my bulbs. Now only my high beam works, and usually not when I want it to.
One rearview mirror's threads have stripped and I have it held in place with tape. A puncture in a new tube still leaked after three attempts to patch it so I replaced the tube yet again.
My throttle cable broke, and of course I hadn't replaced the spare I used up last time it went.
This is in addition to the minor oil leaks, starting problems, and strange rattling sounds that seem to come and go regularly. My machine sometimes starts cleanly on a light kick, and other times demands 10 minutes of tinkering and adjusting before it turns over.
It goes on like that – rarely serious but always annoying. And every Bullet owner I know has a similar story. Would we give up our Bullets? No way! All the fuss and aggravation is what bonds Bullet owners to their machines. They are our babies, colic and all. Perhaps that's the real secret of the Bullet mystique. Or maybe it's that great BUDDA BUDDA sound and the beauty of being out on the wide open Indian road.

Update Note:
This list of problems is from my earlier days with my Bullet. Over the past two years we have settled into a much more comfortable relationship. I rarely have trouble with it these days. It starts promptly (most times) runs reliably, and it has been at least 6 months since I visited my mechanic. Since I know its weak points, I look for the warning signs, change the cables and tubes regularly, and look after it more than I used to. I guess there is a moral there.

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Buying a motorcycle

If you want to buy a new Bullet, check the Enfield India web site. They can brief you on models available and costs, as well as dealers in various cities. They have a range of models, including an export and a diesel model.

If you want to buy a used one, you'll have to negotiate that yourself once you get here. Your best bet may be buying one from a fellow traveler finishing up a trip. Other options include ads in local papers. Many cities now have inexpensive ad papers (FREE ADS is one) where people advertise all manner of things, including motorcycles.

It is important when buying any bike to make sure that you get all the proper documents transferred into your name, including insurance. For a new bike the dealer will do this. For a used bike you may have to get the services of someone who will help you for a small fee. If the bike you buy in Delhi was originally registered in Goa you may have some jurisdictional problems. Find out before you pay any money.

If you plan to sell the bike again before you leave, allow enough time to find a buyer. Another option is to leave the bike in some safe location if you plan to return for another trip in a few months or a year. Broadlands Hotel in Madras will allow you to store a bike for about Rs. 50 a month. I'm sure other places will offer similar arrangements. Make sure the bike is blocked up, covered, the gas emptied from the carburetor and a bit of oil poured into the spark plug hole.

I should mention here that there are other motorcycles available in India. Honda, Yamaha and Suzuki have collaborations that produce 100cc bikes cheaper to run and more reliable, but not great for touring. Yamaha has plans to introduce a 350cc model, but it's not out yet.

Should you ride alone? A Bullet handles best with only one on. A passenger, and extra luggage, will hamper performance, but it is not impossible. Braking distances increase with extra weight. If your partner rides, and you can afford it, get two bikes.

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Before you set out

- Have a used bike thoroughly checked before you go. Put in new brake pads. Change the tires and tubes if there is any sign of wear. A bike that won't start is frustrating but rarely lethal. Failure of brakes and tires at speed can be.

- You cannot be too careful. The Bullet comes standard with a 20/19 tire on the rear. You can get a 25/19 tire from the MRF Tire Company that is just a little bit wider. Any extra grip is an asset. With a new bike you may be able to request this change. For a new bike, be sure you follow the breaking-in instructions, and don't assume that because it is just out of the factory that everything is alright.

- Check everything. Change all cables so you know how old they are. Change the oil, oil filter and air filters. Add a small fuel filter to the fuel line. They're cheap and the quality of gasoline is often very poor.

- Tighten ALL nuts and bolts. This should be a regular routine since they can loosen with driving.

- If you know what you're doing, remove any unnecessary electrical wiring. Bullets are famous for electrical shorts, and the wiring is a nightmare. A coloured wire that starts at the battery may change colour several times before it reaches its destination. Checking them is difficult.

- Get a good carry rack installed. Try and keep the weight of your baggage as low as possible to keep the center of gravity down. Any welder can fashion some sort of rack for you, or you can buy chrome ones.

- Make sure you have a good leg guard. New bikes don't come with them.

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Tools & Spares

Make sure you have a complete tool kit, even for a new bike. You need at least one large spanner (23mm) (to take off the rear wheel to fix a puncture) and some other wrenches. Pliers, tape, and screwdrivers are necessary. Ask a good mechanic what tools and sizes you should have. Tire irons, and a good puncture kit are important. Try and get the vulcanizing tire patches that you briefly set on fire. They are hard to find, but make the best seal. Have spare tire valves, a good pump, a pressure gauge (and check the pressure daily) and at least one new heavy duty tube. Have spares to all cables, and at least one extra clutch/brake handle assembly. These are made of cast aluminum and easily break if you drop the bike. Take spare bulbs. Some binding wire and cut-up strips of an old inner tube are also handy. In fact, the strips of tube make great bungy cords that no one is likely to steal.

The above are items that you may need to make repairs at the side of the road. However, don't overdo the spares you carry since one of the beauties of the Bullet is that most parts are available in even small towns and villages. Don't forget to replace any spares that you use up.

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Indian Mechanics

Indian mechanics range from pure genius (they can fix anything) to total incompetents (they'll destroy your bike). When you are on the road you won't always know what kind you are dealing with. It's a good idea to sit and watch what mechanics are doing - partly so you'll know what to do if you ever breakdown and partly to make sure the work is done well. Every mechanic shop has at least one experienced, and often good, mechanic, and a number of others under training. Often young lads work on the vehicles, and if they have been well trained they can do a good job. But there is not a great deal of concern shown for cleanliness. Parts that have been removed while opening up some part of you motor are casually laid down on an old rag or a scrap of newspaper. Gritty rags are used to wipe sensitive parts and grit can easily get into your moving parts. Sitting there and watching may help minimize some of the problem.

Mechanics are very cheap in India. Labour costs seem to run about 50 cents to a dollar an hour. Since I invariably seem to ruin whatever clothes I am wearing when I go to fix my bike myself, I find it very economical to get the work done for me. I have finally found an excellent Bullet mechanic and that has made a huge difference in the performance of the machine. If you ever come through Hyderabad I can tell you how to find him. Also, in some major cities, Enfield has repair centers where they do good work, but charge for it too. Parts are also quite inexpensive, but the quality is not always good. If possible, try and buy genuine parts from the manufacturer, or ask the local mechanic what brands are best.

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Plan your Trip

Take your time. Plan your trip in gentle stages, especially if you've never spent a lot of time on a bike. Indian road conditions are terrible, as a rule, and you cannot expect to make good speed. For some reason, on a long trip, I find I'm lucky to average 40 to 50 Km per hour, even on straight roads. That means 6 to 8 hours of riding nets me about 300 Km in a day. That's as much time as I like to spend on a bike in a day and I try and plan my segments with that in mind. You may find you average more, or perhaps less if you stop a lot, and may want to plan accordingly. Don't get committed into covering a certain distance in a limited time span until you've experienced your own pace on the road.

Get a good map. They're hard to find in India, so consider getting one outside the country if you can. Roads are poorly marked, and some that are marked aren't there and some roads that exist aren't on the map. It pays to ask directions several times, as locals that aren't sure may give you their best guess anyway. Try asking directions to a nearby town on your route rather than your final destination.

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Public Transport

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Car Driving

Drive defensively

This cannot be over stated. Indian traffic conditions are chaotic, the drivers reckless, and the roads often in poor repair. There is a pecking order for right of way :cows are at the top, trucks and buses are second, and dogs and pedestrians are at the bottom. Two wheelers are pretty low down. You can only really lord it over bicycles and chickens.

You will not believe the crazy things other drivers are capable of until you've driven here. People overtake on blind corners. They swerve blindly in traffic. They come off side roads at full speed and join the traffic flow without even looking. They stop on a whim in the middle of the road. They barrel down the middle of a narrow road playing chicken - forcing anyone smaller off on the shoulder. Expect anything, at any time. Nor will you believe road conditions.

Pot holes and speed breaker bumps are common, and rarely marked. Rocks are commonly left on the road by a truck that has blocked its wheels while stopped to repair a tire. Pedestrians, animals, bicycles, ox carts and tractors all use the roads.

Sometimes people lie down and have a nap on the edge of the road. Traffic barriers and road dividers appear suddenly and inexplicably. Road repair crews leave piles of sand, gravel, or tar on the road. During harvest times, people spread grain and other crops on the road to dry. You'll suddenly find yourself fishtailing through a 6 inch deep mound of millet seeds. Expect anything, at any time.

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City Driving

Driving in big cities is, initially, a terrifying prospect. So much traffic, so much noise and pollution, and so much chaos. Don't dismay. Driving in large cities is a bit like juggling chainsaws - once you get the rhythm of it you're half way there, but one small slip can be very messy.

The rhythm is the key. Ease into city driving if you can. Concentrate most on what is in front of you. It seems an unwritten rule of the road that people behind you will adjust to what you are doing. Most of the drivers in front of you will assume you are watching out for them. They may pull out suddenly, swerve abruptly, or just stop because they've arrived. Do not assume lanes have any significance. Do not assume lights will be followed either.

Buses are a hazard. They will suddenly swerve to the edge to drop passengers, and pull out abruptly. If they merely slow down at any point, some passengers may decide to jump off, other to jump on. Watch out for carts and rickshaws. Some carry over-sized loads or extra long loads that jut dangerously into traffic. Autoricksaws are constantly in a hurry and zip recklessly through dense traffic. Pedestrians can appear anywhere, at any time. So, of course, can cows, pigs, dogs and other animals.

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Country Driving

Here is where you can enjoy the open roads and dramatic country-side, but it is not without its hazards. Your fellow drivers will probably drive very fast, and often quite recklessly. Long haul lorries and buses are usually the worst offenders, and have the unofficial right-of-way due to their size.

Drivers on country roads favour the middle of the road and swerve to their side only at the last minute, often indulging in blood-chilling games of chicken with on-coming traffic. Don't try and play. Slow down and ride the shoulder.

Check your mirrors frequently. Over the sound of your bike you will not hear a vehicle overtaking you. This is particularly necessary before you overtake anyone, even a slow moving oxcart, or when a speeding vehicle is bearing down on you. If there is another truck coming right behind you you will be the loser if the three of you try and pass abreast.

Try and avoid major roads, especially the national highways. Though slightly wider and better maintained, these roads are clogged with speeding trucks, buses and cars. Where possible, take the minor routes. The pace is slower, the scenery is better, and the trip more pleasant.

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Use your Headlights

Having headlights on in the daytime is a standard safety requirement in many countries for both cars and bikes. It increases visibility of vehicles in motion and saves lives. Unfortunately, in India, when you drive in daylight with your headlights on you create astonishing stress in the lives of all who see you. Oncoming drivers will flash their lights, other two-wheelers will pull along side trying to tell you your lights are on, and almost every pedestrian you pass will point, wave, and flash their fingers at you. It is annoying as hell, but people here seem to have some kind of primal need to tell you you're lights are on. Try and ignore them. On a road trip I drive with headlights on (except in cities and towns, where the hassle is too much). It makes a difference. At least all those people trying to get your attention have seen you. I've had on-coming trucks start to pull into my lane and then pull back because my headlight was on. I think I was benefiting from the unwritten rule that the driver that first flashes their lights has the right of way.

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Don't Drive at night

Road conditions become almost unbearable at night. You face on-coming traffic with astonishingly bright headlights. Few will dim them, and many will flash you just as they pass. Some vehicles run with only one light, and more than a few with NO LIGHTS AT ALL! (Vehicles without any lights are quite common in city driving!) Slow moving vehicles, stopped vehicles, bicycles, and pedestrians may not be visible at all. Neither will the many road hazards. Avoid driving at night, or if you have to, exercise extreme caution. And carry spare headlight bulbs. Rough roads can do in your headlight bulb easily. They now sell halogen bulbs for the Bullet. I just got one and cannot yet tell you if it was a good choice. Considering road conditions, having a strong headlight can only help.

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Protection

a: Carry a good first aid kit

At least you should be able to clean and dress scrapes and cuts. Do not expect any roadside assistance if you have an accident. Not only is there no ambulance service in most places, it is not uncommon for the bystanders to be afraid to offer assistance when an accident occurs out of fear of the police, and ignorance of what to do. Victims of serious accidents are lucky if they are picked up by their arms and legs and tossed into a local taxi and driven to a hospital. Spinal injuries virtually guarantee paralysis. Preventable bleeding easily leads to major blood loss. This is why avoiding accidents in the first place is so crucial.

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b: Wear a helmet

The laws in some cities do require helmets, but may not be enforced. In reality there is no real compulsion to wear helmets, and quite a few reasons no to. (They are hot, heavy, and awkward.) Still, considering the consequences of an accident without a helmet, you would be well advised to wear one. Helmets are readily available in India, but look carefully for a good one.

c: Have good Eye protection

Use a visor on your helmet, or get some good goggles. They sell the WWII dispatch driver type of goggles here, if you want them. You will encounter a large number of bugs while riding. A good sized dragon fly can cause serious eye damage, as can stone chips flung up by other vehicles. Also the wind can dry or blur your eyes.

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Bring an International Driving Permit

The police in some areas (Goa, I've heard, is bad) enjoy catching foreign tourists driving without a valid international permit. They are mostly interested in the "donation" you will be forced to cough up for them to look the other way.

Enjoy the Challenge

With most of the warnings out of the way, look towards the bright side. India is a fantastic, beautiful, and challenging country to travel in. On a motorcycle you'll have access to places, people, and experiences that few other travelers will. It will be a memorable trip. Be careful, and have a great time.

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Guides & Guide Books

Travelling in India has definitely been made easier by the emergence of comprehensive guidebooks aimed at the backpacker and the mid-range tourist. Old time travelers, who roamed the world before the advent of guidebooks, relied on each other for information and bemoan the lack of camaraderie among today's travelers.

It is true that guidebooks tend to channel tourists toward the same places, send them to the same hotels, and create a "check list" approach to sight seeing. However, the comfort of having reliable travel information and advice gives a lot of people the confidence to set off on adventures many would not normally contemplate.

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Guides

There are official guides licensed by the Tourism authorities of the State but they are usually on their own while at the toursit spots. They are required to carry their identity cards while vending their services, so ask for it if in doubt. The rates vary for the various monuments depending on the time required for visiting them. Ask at the local tourist office for the rates before hiring a guide.

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Guides Books

You will not require this section while you are a members with us. In time, we will bring to you all the updated information at your fingertips and thereby you can say goodbye to carrying these bulky guide books while on your India trip.

Ultimately, the best guidebook is your own instincts and desires. Each traveler should have a style and set of interests uniquely personal. By all means, travel with a guidebook, but remember it is only a guide, not a Holy Scripture of Travelling. Use it as a reference, but be open to the flow and rhythm of the road. There is a synchronicity of events that overtakes the traveler. Be open to it. Travel is far more than a pilgrimage to venerable ruins or rare sights. It is a process of experiencing and understanding other cultures while discovering the basic humanity shared by all on this incredible planet. Travel, ideally, broadens vision, shrinks human differences, and involves not only tramping through the physical world, but also the exploration of the vast expanses of the mind within.

There are several guidebooks for the physical exploration of India, and more seem to arrive regularly. No guide book is comprehensive, and all will be out of date to one degree or another. Use prices that they quote only as a guideline. (Since prices are often out of date, even a second hand guidebook will serve.) All guidebooks are big. India is a huge country and they try and get everything in.

Here is a list of a few of them

The Lonely Planet
The granddaddy of guide books. With photos and maps. Being the oldest and most commonly carried, it takes a lot of flack from those that sneer at guidebooks. Critics feel it 'directs' the tourist too much.

Rough Guide to India
Produced by the popular Rough Guide Series, it's a good, comprehensive guide with good background detail on locations. No photos, but sketches and maps. Good organization.

The India Handbook by Footprint Handbook.
A very new arrival, put out by the people that have long published the South American Handbooks. Printed on light weight paper with a hard cover. Easiest to carry, and most durable. Lots of information and details of small towns in between cities. Not pushy. Good maps. No photos. Good organization.

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Worldwide India Tourism Offices

Coming Soon.

Government of India Tourist Offices
No guidebook, but offices in most major centers offer brochures, tours, and local information. Unfortunately, the web site is stodgy and superficial. India, as a destination, deserves much more.

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Other General Tips

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